Most people immediately think of Binondo in old Manila when anyone mentions Chinatown in Metro Manila. But if you want to explore a similar area with temples and authentic Chinese cuisine, Banawe is a promising alternative. While this area in Quezon City is better known for its automotive offerings for car owners, Banawe is also home to one of the biggest Chinatowns in the world. Officially recognized in 2005, QC’s Chinatown district comprises 13 barangays within a total area of almost 6 square km” bisected by the 3.2 km long Banawe Street.
Ahead of Chinese New Year, I found myself exploring some spots around the Banawe area by bike and by scooter to see what it offers in terms of tourism. Here’s what you can find in Quezon City’s own Chinatown district
Filipino-Chinese Friendship Arch
Welcome arches are a popular photo-op spot for cyclists and riders visiting any new area and Banawe’s Chinatown arches are no exception. Banawe has two Chinese páifāng or Filipino-Chinese Friendship Arches that can be found at the intersection of Quezon Avenue and Banawe Street on the north and south entry points of Banawe Street built in 2013 as a project of the Federation of Filipino-Chinese Chamber of Commerce and Industry, Inc (FFCCCII).

Paifang, also known as pailou, is a traditional style of Chinese architecture typically used in arch or gateway structures. Outside of China, paifang symbolizes the entrance to Chinatowns. In a virtual video tour of Banawe, Public Historian Prof. Xiao Chua explained that the Banawe arches contain bas reliefs made of jade from China. The markings on either side of the arch contain well-wishes for prosperous times for the country and celebrate “a bountiful year and good weather,” so the arches are a good starting point for bike tours.
Sheng Lian Temple
On the corner of Bayani Street and Kapiligan Streets (accessible from Quezon Ave or Aurora Blvd.) near the Banawe area lies a Taoist temple dedicated to Eight Lucky Saints. The Sheng Lian Temple, built in the 1960s, is the oldest in Banawe and is headed by Taoist Grand Minister and Feng Shui expert Rev. Father Wongsengtian, who I had the honor of meeting during my DIY bike tour.

Father Wongsengtian shared that the temple is open to people of all religious beliefs and creeds, following the philosophy of Taoism. Anyone can drop by to pray, burn incense as an offering, or learn more about the principles of Feng Shui. He shared that it’s a common practice among members of the Filipino-Chinese communities to visit the temple during the Chinese New Year to pray for guidance and good fortune. He also shared some predictions for the Year of the Wooden Snake when I dropped by and presented me with two lucky charms for prosperity and good fortune for travel. Donations are welcome at the temple.
Tzu Chi Philippines Jing Si Hall
From Sheng Lian temple, I biked to the Tzu Chi Foundation’s Jing Si Hall. Tzu Chi is the world’s largest Buddhist humanitarian organization, founded in Taiwan by Buddhist nun Dharma Master Cheng Yen in 1966. The humanitarian and nonprofit organization established in the Philippines in November 1994 conducts charity work and humanitarian programs.

Currently, the temple has been converted into a pre-school while the headquarters of the Tzu Chi Foundation has been moved to another location in Sta. Mesa. While it’s no longer possible for visitors to enter this temple, you can take a quick peek from the outside if you happen to be biking around the area.
Banawe Food Crawl

No trip to Banawe is complete without food tripping. A few pedal strokes from the corner of Tzu Chi is Quezon Avenue, where you can stop by Ma Mon Luk, one of the oldest noodle house restos in Quezon City. This iconic Chinese eatery, named after its founder from Guangzhou, China who migrated to the Philippines in the 1920s, is known for pioneering mami and siopao, two staples in Chinese cuisine.

For variety, I’d recommend heading to the other side of Banawe Street across Quezon Avenue, where there are more restaurants to choose from. For families and larger groups, popular dining spots include Mandarin Sky Seafood Restaurant, Causeway Restaurant, David’s Tea House, D’ Original Maki Haus, and Cai Hok Seafood Restaurant. Classic Binondo joints like Tasty Dumplings, King Chef and Sincerity also have branches in Banawe.

Smaller eateries serve budget-friendly and tasty dim sum and dumplings, noodles, street food, sweets, milk tea and more ideal for post-ride food trips, where parking is not a problem. Try Tuen Mun Roasts if you’re in the mood for Hong Kong roasts, 28 Treasures for dim sum and dumplings, or Bugis for Singapore street food like Laksa. Locals rave about Fong Wei Wu for authentic Taiwanese turo-turo fare, Muy Hong for fresh Amoy lumpia and oyster cake, and Jin Hokki Dumplings for fried dumplings and cuapao. For dessert, drop by Lord Stow’s for Macau-style egg tarts or enjoy coffee at Espacio Cafe, which has an al fresco dining area where you can keep an eye on bikes easily.

Chinese deli shopping
Expect to shop for unique food finds in Chinese delis as well. Banawe Bean Curd, established in 1999, sells soy-based products like chilled taho and fresh tofu. Formosa Bakeshop specializes in Taiwanese cakes and breads, with pineapple, plum and melon cakes for P85 a piece. Eng Bee Tin, a deli that originated as a stall in Ongpin in 1912, is the place to go for tikoy, mooncake, and hopia with unique flavors like Hopia Ube, Mochipia (Hopia with Tikoy at the center), and Hopia Sisig.

Ho-land, a Chinese bakery first opened in the 1960s, also sells its own brand of hopia, along with other childhood favorites like White Rabbit candy, kiamoy, haw flakes, and fortune cookies for P10 each.

Riding through Banawe gave me a unique look at the bustling culture of Quezon City’s Chinatown. With its rich cultural heritage, established businesses, and variety of authentic Chinese goods and food, Banawe has potential as a tourism district, especially for cyclists and motorcycle riders, aside from car owners who naturally visit the area.
Preserving the area’s cultural history while integrating modern developments could give the district a unique identity. With its wider and less congested streets, having dedicated bike lanes, secure bike racks, or bike parking stations near restaurants and safer intersections could boost the area as a cycling destination. Adding greenways and trees to help improve air quality and provide shade for cyclists during hotter months could also provide cyclists with a more pleasant ride.
For more travel articles, visit the author’s blog at www.traveling-up.com.